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Mi Cariña, Andalucía (My Darling, Andalucía)

April 08, 2010 Trackback by Megan Burik

Before I spent the majority of my spring break in Andalucía, I held the stereotypical views of the southern region of Spain: cities of blanch white walls capped by terracotta roofs, with warm sun overhead and warm people within—where the British take their holidays.  These stereotypes exist for a reason.

Photo provided by: Megan Burik

Photo provided by: Megan Burik

While I did visit Seville, Spain during my vacation, I left my heart in Granada. A city rich in history stands in the shadow of the impressive hilltop remains of the Moorish fortress, La Alhambra. Like an ever-present guardian, La Alhambra bears witness to all the mixings and goings-on in Granada.

The history of La Alhambra spreads across centuries, as did its construction.  In the 9th century, the first inhabitants built a small citadel, followed by the more fortified palaces of the Nasrid Dynasty in the 14th century. In 1492, Spanish troops overwhelmed the Moors and re-conquered the area for Spain. Legend has it that Boabdil, the last sultan of Granada, cried whilst trudging away from his surrendered land. His mother scolded him, saying “Don’t cry like a woman over what you couldn’t defend like a man.”

Photo provided by: Megan Burik

Photo provided by: Megan Burik

If I had given up La Alhambra, I’m sure I would have cried too.  Majestic walls and lookout towers form the hard exoskeleton, while inside elaborate gardens flourish and ancient palaces resonate with the sound of gurgling fountains. The architecture exudes the Islamic roots, with decadent Arabic script carved into many walls and key prayer rooms facing east. Gazing from the towers, Granada is laid out like a blanket on hilly land, and in the distance the snow-capped Sierra Nevada Mountains loom behind a fog.

A short walk down the hill from La Alhambra leads to the ancient barrio neighborhood. Now full of cafés, shops, and homes, the barrio was the root of the ancient city outside the walls of La Alhambra, with twisting narrow alleyways. Tourists wander wide-eyed through the labyrinth, cameras held at the ready to try to capture the atmosphere with just one frame.

One of my friends from Britain, (who just happened to be on holiday in Andalucía), noted the sense of calm in the air. Everything just feels more relaxed in Spain, she noted, and it’s more colorful than Britain. The buildings boast bright colors, the people dress vibrantly, the history is dense, and there is vivacity for life.

The vivacity for life is what stole my heart, and will keep me longing for Spain upon my return to America. I can’t say it with any less cliché than that.

 

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