On the corner of 560th and Orange, in the heart of Iowan Amish country, a large house sits nestled under a grand maple up a long, winding lane. Attached to the far corner of the main house is a smaller home known as a grandpa house. Inside this dwelling, the nimble-fingered 91-year-old Verna Weaver, Amish rug-making extraordinaire, practices her craft. As one of eight sisters, Weaver began sewing at a young age.
“My mom taught me to sew,” Weaver said. “I was the oldest and so of course I had to learn to sew because we made our own dresses and clothes. So I learned to sew, and I always liked it.”
Weaver is one of many Amish entrepreneurs in Kalona, Iowa, who utilize their crafts and skills to cater to the large number of tourists. Because Kalona is home to the largest Amish and Mennonite settlement west of the Mississippi River, the Amish traditions and values transcend into the business sector.
Local Amish stores in Kalona, such as the Golden Delight Bakery and the Community Store, sell Weaver’s double knit rugs. Thirty years ago, Weaver’s neighbor taught her how to make them. Ever since, she has been making them on the same black treadle Singer sewing machine she received in January of 1945.
When two Des Moines Register newspaper employees challenged each other to a bicycle ride across the state of Iowa in 1973, they thought the trip would offer a fresh way to write about the state. Just six weeks before the ride, they enlisted a small core of riders, chose a route and published it in the newspaper to encourage readers to join the ride.
Nearly 40 years later, RAGBRAI (Register’s Annual Great Bike Ride Across Iowa) is the oldest, largest and longest touring bicycle ride in the world. Pronounced “rag-bry,” the ride covers between 450 and 500 miles, attracts 10,000 registered cyclists and thousands more supporters and unregistered riders each July.
Bicyclists dip their back tires in the ceremonial starting line of the Missouri River, along the western border of Iowa, at the beginning of the ride each year. At the end of the seventh day, they dip their front tires in the Mississippi River along the eastern border to signify the completion of the ride.
The thick foliage of the towering maple tree nearly disguises the winding labyrinth of pathways and staircases that make up the 12-story structure. Mick Jurgensen, the designer and builder, doesn’t have any architectural training, but that hasn’t stopped him from constructing a treehouse that exceeds any child’s dream.
The Big Treehouse is nestled in a 60-foot maple tree in the backyard of Jurgensen’s grandmother’s house in the Shady Oaks Campgrounds, three miles east of Marshalltown, Iowa. His grandmother, Mary Gift, calls it her grandson’s hobby, but Jurgensen said he never imagined that the towering, 55-foot treehouse would evolve into what it is today — a structure taller than a semi-trailer is long.
“I didn’t want to start a treehouse,” Jurgensen said. “I wanted to put a deck on the back of the house, and Grandpa said no … so I hooked it on the tree.”
He started building the treehouse in 1983 at the age of 21, but had no intentions of continuing the project for so long.
“It was kind of fun to build,” Jurgensen said. “It just kept going.”
Rush hour in Vedic City, Iowa, is an understatement. Every day, just minutes before 7 a.m. and 5 p.m., its main street transforms from a desolate country road into a gently moving caravan carrying approximately 1,900 passengers intent upon achieving world peace.
This common objective attracts visitors from all over the world to the heart of the Hawkeye State, many of them followers of the Transcendental Meditation (TM) movement and believers of the tranquil lifestyle. They eat organically-grown foods, live in housing built according to natural principles and make sustainability a priority in the 2,200 acres of land bordering Fairfield, Iowa, that they call home. Twice a day, they make the pilgrimage to two shimmering gold-domed complexes to cross their legs in the lotus position, close their eyes and meditate, to improve not only their own health but to better the society surrounding them.
The TM organization cites numerous studies that it says proves its method works and distinguishes the program from other common forms of meditation or yoga. Jeffrey Cohen, director of the Invincible America Assembly at accredited Maharishi University of Management (MUM), said TMers demonstrated their method in Washington, and even as far away as Lebanon. Cohen said that in Lebanon, statistics showed a “direct correlation” between the size of the groups meditating and the amount of crime and violence in the area.
“In Washington, D.C., large groups of TM mediaters convened to show that [their technique] would lower the crime rate in D.C.,” Cohen said. “And in fact, statistical analysis showed that it lowered violent crime by… a very significant amount. And again, it was reviewed by experts and sociologists.”
It’s a weekend that involves a 2,700-foot-long rope, a 2,200-foot-wide river, more than 50,000 tourists and two intensely competitive towns.
This is a tug-of-war of epic proportions.
The contest between LeClaire, Iowa, and Port Byron, Ill., spans the Mississippi River. The tug is the culminating event of Tug Fest, a three-day festival in mid-August that takes place in each town. The competition began 24 years ago when someone from Port Byron challenged someone from LeClaire to a tugging contest. Since then, the tug and the festival have grown in size and popularity. Going into this year’s competition, Illinois led the rivalry 13-10, and Iowa hadn’t won the contest since 2006.
“The camaraderie of all the people, the enjoyment that they have, the competition across the––– river. … It just brings the whole area together better,” said Tom Tomlinson, who was enjoying his third Tug Fest in LeClaire.
During Tug Fest, 35,000 visitors swoop down upon LeClaire, a town with a population of 2,700. The festival takes place on the town’s riverfront, where colorful carnival rides and games line the levee. Families and children enjoy attractions such as a Ferris wheel, bumper cars, ring tosses and a carousel. Further along the levee, the scent of tenderloins and popcorn wafts through the summer heat while country music resounds from speakers.
In addition to carnival rides and food vendors, LeClaire’s festival features a parade, a 5K run, live music and entertainment, a children’s tug and fireworks that are shot off from a barge situated in the river between the two towns.
Despite the nation’s sluggish economy, one type of travel destination has seen growth in recent years. Or perhaps it is because of the economy that campgrounds and parks like Botna Bend Park in Hancock, Iowa, have seen more visitors in the past few years.
“People are not able to travel as far [these days],” park ranger Jon Fenner said. “Camping, in my mind, is kind of like fishing — you can make it expensive, or you can make it a pretty cheap, fun thing to do. You don’t have to buy an expensive camper to go camping.”
The park has seen a 50 percent increase in campers during the last eight years. Botna Bend’s community center has seen almost a 100 percent increase in use during recent years, as well, Fenner said.
Botna Bend Park was established in the 1960s to provide space for camping and outdoor activities. Situated approximately one hour from Omaha, Neb., and less than two hours from Des Moines, Iowa, the park attracts visitors from across the Midwest.
Instead of being state-run, Botna Bend Park is part of the Pottawattamie County Conservation Board — meaning the park is operated on a local level only.
“We have a lot of parks and a lot of spaces for people to visit, like [Botna Bend],” Fenner said. “A lot of places in Iowa, and even the Midwest, don’t have a lot of public land. We grow corn and soybeans or have pastures. It is really important that we have that public land for people to enjoy.”
Diane Eggers and her family have been regulars at the park for more than 20 years. The Eggers started the tradition by bringing their children, and now their grandchildren often join them.
Storm troopers milled anxiously around the stage, Spocks fidgeted with their ears and Darth Vaders loomed in the background. With them, about 40 other costumed characters stood lined up, awaiting their moment in the spotlight at the annual Trekfest in Riverside, Iowa.
A buzz rose through the crowd as three former stars from the original Star Trek television series mounted the stage. George Takei, Nichelle Nichols, Walter Koenig made a special appearance at the festival’s 25th anniversary to judge the costume contest and give speeches.
Among the costume contestants, Star Trek fan Shel Greek-Lippe stood proudly dressed as Lady Amanda, Spock’s pregnant mother. The realism of Greek-Lippe’s costume was aided by the fact that she was eight months pregnant with twins.
“It was kind of hard to tell if I could make it today or not because I’m so far along,” Greek- Lippe said. “But I’m glad I made it to compete another year.”
The competition was stiff, with a lineup including a square lava like creature called a giant horta, a father-son Spock team and multiple stormtroopers. For Greek-Lippe this is a yearly event. She said she’s been coming to Trekfest and entering the costume contest for about 15 years.
The costume contest is just part of the celebration every June in honor of Captain James T. Kirk from Star Trek. According to the Star Trek series, written by Gene Roddenberry, Captain Kirk will be born 2233 in a small Iowa town, but Roddenbury never names the town. So one day 25 years ago, Riverside community club member and avid Star Trek fan Steve Miller asked, “Why not Riverside?”
Terry Philips, president of the community club at the time, said Miller suggested declaring Riverside as the birthplace of Captain James T. Kirk to the city council.
“The city council kind of ignored it and went on with the other business,” Philips said. “The next meeting, Steve brought it up again. They knew Steve well enough [to know] that he would not let it go, so they said ‘Fine, we’ll humor Steve’ and declared Riverside to be the birthplace.”
At the Carriage House Bed and Breakfast, a relaxing stay in the dollhouse-like home is served with a warm cup of Irish hospitality.
Victorian architecture epitomized by a sweeping veranda conjures images of the 1890s upper-crust of Grinnell, Iowa — mingling, waltzing house-guests in prim dresses and suits. Almost unnoticed on the side of the house, a small covered entryway evokes images of gussied-up Victorian women stepping out of their carriages and onto the shielded area so as not to muddy their fine footwear.
Dorothy Spriggs, manager and co-owner of the Carriage House with her husband Ray, said running a bed and breakfast was always in the back of her mind while growing up.
The smells of sweet homemade apple pie, harsh print shop ink and woodsy, smoky campfires greet guests as they take a walking tour through Iowa’s history.
Living History Farms is a 500-acre outdoor museum in Urbandale, Iowa. Visitors progress through four time periods in Iowa’s history, including a 1700 Ioway Indian tribe site, an 1850 pioneer farm, a 1900 farm and an 1875 town.
Former Iowa State University professor William Murray created the living museum in 1970 after two unsuccessful runs for Iowa governor. Jennie Derr, marketing and public relations director, said Murray decided to give back to Iowa in a different way.
From the outside, the museum looks like an average brick building. There is only one peculiarity — bars over the windows.
Built during the 19th century in Council Bluffs, Iowa, the Squirrel Cage Jail housed local criminals in addition to the jailer’s family. Today, the jail is preserved as a museum.
HISTORY AND EXPLANATION OF THE JAIL
In 1884, Cottonwood Jail burned down and the county was forced to house prisoners in a single room in the courthouse basement. The “Squirrel Cage,” as locals know it, is a rotary or “lazy-Susan” style jailhouse, built in 1885.
The rotary design of the jail was chosen for the Pottawattamie County Jail because the facility was designed to hold about 60 prisoners with only one jailer. However, there are accounts of as many as five men being put in each two-man cell. Each cell consisted of two bunks and a small privy, or primitive toilet system, in the inner part of the cell.
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