| Timeless Treats |
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| Summer 2009 - Food and Drink | |||
| Written by Rebecca Moser | |||
![]() Crown Candy, St. Louis, Missouri Located near downtown St. Louis, Missouri, Crown Candy offers an atmosphere that the average corner candy store can’t. The vintage jukebox, old-fashioned Coca-Cola collectibles and antique signs allow visitors to feel as though they have taken a step back in time. With a traditional soda fountain and a menu that boasts items such as a newport — a sundae with a lot of whipped cream and pecans — this establishment clearly offers more than just a tasty meal. It offers the feel of a simpler time. Part of Crown Candy’s charm comes from the fact that it has a history that makes it different from the run-of-the-mill candy store. According to the store’s Web site, Harry Karandzieff and Pete Jugaloff opened Crown Candy when they brought their confectioners’ skills from Greece in 1913. The two men wanted to create an establishment with a family atmosphere in which to sell their sweet treats. In the 1950s, Harry’s son George took over, keeping the business in the family. Today, George’s three sons, Andy, Tommy and Mike Karandzieff, run the family business. The décor reminds visitors of this rich history. Guests are seated in old-fashioned wooden booths, and black and white checkered tiles line the floor. Each table contains a small jukebox, and while they no longer are working, they add to the retro feel of the store. Visitors also can step into a vintage phone booth that stands near the store’s front door.
Joe Eisenbraun, a Crown Candy employee, said the establishment is best known for its two famed specialties — homemade ice cream and candy. “We make our own ice cream and chocolate,” Eisenbraun said. “Our specialty is the heavenly hash. It has marshmallow, chocolate and pecans on top. We also have molded chocolate, like Easter bunnies.” In addition to the homemade chocolate, Crown Candy offers an impressive candy counter with items such as licorice, gummy bears and jawbreakers. Candies are sold by the pound, and the establishment offers tubs of its homemade ice cream to go. While some restaurants challenge visitors to eat a 10-pound hamburger or down a pizza the size of a football field, Crown Candy has its own challenge centered on one of its specialties — the chocolate malt. “It’s called the Five Malt Club,” Eisenbraun said. “You have to eat five malts in 30 minutes. They are 24-ounce malts. We get a lot of people who come in and try and don’t finish. I tell them, ‘If you don’t make it, you have to clean it up.’” Those who are able to finish the five malts within the time frame get their names on a plaque inside the restaurant, and their malts are free of charge. Crown Candy and its Five Malt Club even have appeared on the Travel Channel’s television show “Man v. Food” with Adam Richman. “He tried, but he didn’t finish,” Eisenbraun said of Richman, the show’s host. While Crown Candy is most known for its sweet treats, it also offers a full menu from which visitors can order lunch or dinner. The restaurant offers an array of soups, salads and sandwiches. Eisenbraun said the Reuben with corned beef on rye bread is one of the restaurant’s best sellers. “The work crowd comes from downtown, and they are looking for something satisfying with a reasonable price for lunch,” Eisenbraun said. “The family crowd is looking for a family place to wow the kids. Then we get a lot of out-of-towners who come for the historical aspect.” “We have a lot of big candy seasons like Christmas or Valentine’s Day, but Easter is probably the busiest,” Eisenbraun said. No matter what time of year, Crown Candy offers visitors the chance to experience an earlier time. Whether it is the homemade chocolate, the historic atmosphere or the chance to win five free malts, this St. Louis staple offers something for everyone. Photos by David Mohl http://www.crowncandykitchen.net/
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